Hit the Road Jack (Westbound chp. 5)

“All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware”-Martin Buber

If you want to see a giant hole in the desert floor, visit Meteor Crater. Located off I-40 at exit 233 and 6 miles south on the paved road, it is worth the stop. A meteorite, 50,000 years ago, formed a crater 550 feet deep, 2.4 miles in circumference and nearly one mile across on the inhabited earth. Estimations state that the meteor was 150 feet across and traveling 26,000 mph when it hit the rocky plains. The craters terrain resembled that of craters found on the moon’s surface due to impact and the reverse strata. NASA decided that Arizona area made for great training ground for Apollo astronauts. The results provided invaluable information during those missions. Robyn, who has worked at Meteor Crater for sixteen years says, “I still get excited” about the information she learns at the center. (www.meteorcrater.com)

So many things, so little time

In the song, Route 66, it says don’t forget Winona, and you will if your aren’t paying attention. Weather you’re traveling on I-40 or I-17, stretch your legs in Flagstaff. It’s a nice jumping off spot before the Grand Canyon or Sedona. The town offers sections of the famous highway to explore and many landmarks. Enjoy Flagstaff for what it has to offer, restaurants, shopping, biking or fishing.

The town of Williams is the last of the bypassed Route 66 towns. Grand Canyon Railway, 233 N Grand Canyon Blvd., offers excursions to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon in 1950-styled passenger cars and vintage diesel locomotives. Round trip or one way, the ride is pleasant. Cowboys and gun fights (April-October) are a part of the Williams showdown. Once the smoke clears, take a spin at Twisters 50′s Soda Fountain, 417 East Route 66. Take a detour to 137 W. Railroad Ave. to the Red Garter Bed and Bakery, housed in a 1897 bordello. Don’t worry, there aren’t any working girls to bother you, but look up towards the windows to see someone checking you out.

Traveling to the end

One of my favorite stops past and present is Seligman. With the interstate development, Seligman began to shrivel up. Angel Delgadillo and fifteen others in surrounding communities decided to fight back and founded the Historic Route 66 Association of Arizona. During my first jaunt, I met Angel, the since retired barber. He was kind enough to show me a few of the many gifts that had been given to him over the years. Flags and license plates that hang from the ceiling, a billiard table loaded with photo albums, a pair of wooden shoes, a stuffed rooster and so much more. You felt as though you were traveling the globe in this former barbershop. The room that holds the lone barber chair, finds its walls covered with business cards from everywhere in the world. (Yes mine is there) The Route 66 Visitor Center has changed somewhat, the pool table is no longer there and the rooster has moved to the women’s restroom, but the traffic of visitors continues. Visible albums full not only of photos but letters that date from 1988 to the present. Angel visits the shop everyday but the surprise is when you may run into him. It doesn’t matter if he is there or not, the energy of the center continues with the help of his family. For those who like to have fun, ask for the Arizona Historic Route 66 Passport. You can have your book stamped at all the places listed and with at least seven stamps, you’re entitled to a special award.

I met with Kayla who is the granddaughter of the late Juan Delgadillo (Angel’s brother). Her father now runs the famous Snow Cap Drive-in, the crazy and wildly decorated food stop on the corner. Some of the examples of tricks played on customers were two door knobs on the main door or “squirting” catsup bottles. The fun continues even to this day. (www.route66giftshop.com)

Snow-Cap

Another great photo-op is the Hackberry General Store, 141 Hackberry Rd.. Now owned by John and Kerry Pritchard, the crazy, old rusty cars, vintage gas pumps and signs are a sample of what you will find. Stock up on gifts offered inside the store. Fill up on gas in Kingman, stay in one of the local motels, or stop at the  Powerhouse Visitor Center and Route 66 Museum, 120 W. Andy Devine. Have your passbook stamped and check out the museum upstairs.

Move forward towards Cool Springs and Oatman. (More about these towns in another post) Finally, like the dreamers of gold and stardom, I finally reach California.

Hit the Road Jack (Westbound chp.4)

“Embrace the detours” Kevin Charbonneau

A New Day

I chase the daylight across the Arizona state line. The Tomahawk Indian Store, boasts it’s existence as the largest teepee, with mountain backdrops and plastic animals scattered across the cliffs. Be careful that they don’t pounce on you. I make a pit-stop to pick up post cards before moving on. Road signs proclaiming the states bicentennial, 1912- 2012 are posted along the way.

Petrified and Painted

When you detour to this approximately 134,000 acre area, the National Park Service calls the Petrified Forest a science park. Geologists, archeologists and biologists use the area for extensive research. Did you know that petrified wood is so hard that it can only be cut with a diamond tipped saw? Over 200 million years ago, trees succumbed to and were submerged in riverbanks rich in sediments containing volcanic ash rich in silica. During this process, the tree’s cell walls changed when the crystalized minerals turned the logs into stone. John Muir spent much of 1905 and the early part of 1906 in the Petrified Forest area identifying fossils. This is also the only National Park to protect a section of the Historical Route 66. A word of caution; if you would rather not spend a few nights in jail, I would advised you not to pick up any petrified wood in the park. These are not the type of memories you want your children to have. There are curio shops inside the park and nearby that sell petrified wood collected legally outside the park.

Within the Park, the Painted Desert Inn is a National Historical Landmark functioning as a museum and bookstore. The Inn was once called the Stone Tree house because so much petrified wood was used in its construction. Complete your visit by exploring the Painted Desert, an expanse of badlands hills, flat-topped mesas and buttes. The hues derive from the colorful layers of sediment based on varying mineral content and ancient environmental conditions.   At the north end of the park, red, orange and pink colors are primarily present. On the south end you will find primarily blue, grey and lavender layers.

Move em’ out

It’s time to return to the road and head towards Holbrook. Have you ever slept in a wigwam? The Wigwam Motel, 811 West Hopi Drive, is just the place to try. On my first turn of Route 66, I faked being tired just so I could sleep in one. Fifteen wigwams, owned by the original family, present themselves larger on the inside than they seem. Cliston Lewis is the owner of the motel and the displayed vintage cars that are in front of the wigwams. Basic features, are all that’s needed for a good nights sleep. Most of the furniture, tables, bureaus, benches and mirrors for example, are part of the original furnishings. As a keepsake, I purchased a “little wigwam” for the memories.

As your travel continues, you’ll pass dinosaurs and fun and funky gift shops but my all time favorite is the Jackrabbit Trading Post, 3386 W. Highway 66, Joseph, AZ. The billboards were once a regular on the road to and from but have become less and less. When you finally see the “Here It Is” sign, you will feel as though you struck gold. My first visit, took place during off-season vacation time, led to a chance to visit with Cindy. A recent phone call provided updated information. Cindy’s grandfather, Glen Blansett took over the post from 1961-69. From there, her dad, Phil,  and mom,  managed the business from 1969-1994. Currently, Cindy Jaquez with her husband have continued the tradition since 1994. I’ve been informed that the Cherry Cider that I and so many others enjoyed has not been made since 2004. Manufacturing issues and obtaining the cherry product that is the key ingredient, were part of the problem. In my Lives on the Road book, Cindy signed and placed the famous Jackrabbit stamp in it. They still carry wonderful Route 66 and other souvenirs. Besides, where else can you have your picture taken on the back of a giant jack rabbit?

Seeking out the words to the song, “Take it Easy” the first hit single for the group, The Eagles, leads you to Winslow. The “Standing on the Corner” park made famous by the song, drew attention to the area. Have your picture taken next to the life-size bronze statue (I did) and then notice the two-story mural that depicts the story.

Ghosts Towns & Ruins

I’m one for exploring and I did during my first trip on Route 66 regarding Two Guns and Twin Arrows. The first, originally “Canyon Lodge,” when the National Trail Highway moved west. Later it became known as Two Guns when the trail  was re-named Route 66. At one time tourists could gas up, have a cup of “Joe”and if needed, an overnight stay. A gift shop was available and later a zoo was added, hence a “Mountain Lion” sign that is seen on one of the ruins. They also housed bobcats and panthers. Approaching the old caged area gave me the shivers as I sensed the presence of lions walking around. It was also during this time that stripped gas pumps existed,  destroyed roads could be viewed and other buildings were locked. I wouldn’t recommend walking around the area now.

Twin Arrows is another lost art form. The first time around, there was still something left of the old establishment. Now concrete barriers exists. Vandals, time and lack of care finds the building and arrows in despair and picked over like a turkey dinner. Next week the trail continues to Meteor Crater to the end of Arizona.

(A big thanks to Richard Ullmann, Chief of Interpretation, Petrified Forest NP and his staff)

Hit the Road Jack (Westbound chp. 3)

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.”- St. Augustine

Crossing the state line of New Mexico places you into the Land of Enchantment. Hit the rest area first because these are far and few in the state. Set your watch to mountain time and move forward through desert terrain. While here, a visit to my friends, Mike and Betty Callen, owners of the Tee Pee Curios takes place. During the heyday of Route 66, his aunt and uncle ran this teepee shaped building that is along the stretch of road that boasted of numerous hotels for travelers. Mike is an avid photographer whose work is in past issues of the Route 66 magazine and recently a 2012 calendar. He is also one of the consultants for the original Cars movie in regards to the Mother Road history.

Old Friends

My first encounter with Mike was through the book, Route 66, Lives on the Road. He gave me the strangest look when I stumbled through the door of his business, book in hand, star struck asking for his autograph. During that time he was quite and probably wondering who this nut was, but he autograph the book and tolerated my chattering. Now we are close due to emails, postcards that I send and the occasional visits when I stop by as I cross New Mexico. Hugs, big grins and stories of his latest work fills the air during these visits and my heart warms when I see my friend and his wife. For fun, stay at the Blue Swallow Motel, a famous find on the route. Read the history regarding the motel and it’s symbol at, www.blueswallowmotel.com. You can also follow the renovations on Facebook.

Hitting the Dusty Road

Driving 75 mph, (yes, it’s the speed limit) I look to the right at the partially used old route that I traveled years before. It seems to call out, “remember me?” The desert, mountains and endless road past Las Vegas and Vaughn. Santa Rosa has always been my midpoint to refuel and for old times sake I pull into my favorite gas station, Love’s. Long stretches move past Cuervo, with vacant buildings that I explored in the past when I thought I found a ghost town. After going through numerous buildings, I located an old beauty shop with a left over chair with an attached bonnet hair dryer. As you head towards Albuquerque, don’t forget to stop at Clines Corner. You can gas up, grab a bite and pick up some fun gifts. It’s a testament to ”standing your ground” as it has weathered change from numerous highway and road developments. In the odd event of bad weather, that bright sign is beacon of hope. The town of Moriarty comes into view. Through my connections during my first turn on the road, I was told of a hidden, defunct old curio shop that housed an old orange snake pit outside. As I drew closer to the pit, my heart picked up pace along with my rapid breathing. Tumbleweeds and leaves, not snakes occupied the pit. My imagination at work.

Is it Alburquerque or Albuquerque?

The second spelling is the correct version when the decision to drop the extra “r” was made. Albuquerque is New Mexico’s only metropolitan area. “The Duke City” is usually bypassed for Santa Fe. I have a past history with this town and the following are my favorite things:

1. The Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta. You don’t know anything about balloons until you participate in the Fiesta, 9201 Balloon Museum Drive N.E. & 4401 Alameda. It is the nations largest hot air balloon rally during the early month of October, this year held the 6-14, 2012. It is also the most photographed event in the world. Arrive early to view the magic of the balloons coming to life and then racing across the sky. Many events are available that are fiesta related, for example, the Balloon Glows. (www.balloonfiesta.com)

2 Instead of flying a kite, take a ride in a hot air balloon. It is an unexplainable sensation that you won’t forget as you sail above buildings and trees. During one of my flights, the smell of blueberries tickled my nose as we rode above a cereal plant. I’ve had rides with two different companies with collectible balloon pins and certificates to prove it. Later, a celebratory breakfast by the crew is given.

3. For good food that won’t leave you begging for more, my two all time favorites are as follows; The first is Flying Star Cafe which serves up meals only a mother could love. Try the chicken fried chicken with mashed potatoes, a homemade biscuit and gravy. For early risers or those who like breakfast for lunch or dinner, treat yourself to a BYO Omelette or the Country Breakfast and stay awhile. There are numerous locations but my hangout is 200 S. Camino Del Pueblo in Bernalillo. The restaurant is spacious, the staff is friendly and the manager, Sheryl Santora, is a sweetheart.

4. My second choice is the Route 66 Diner, 1405 Central Ave. N.E.. This is a throwback to the days of rock and roll, milkshakes, ice cream floats and blue plate specials. I was so addicted to their red cream soda floats, that I had to attend a detox program! The location is on Central Avenue leading to some of the old motel signs of Route 66 and shopping in the Nob Hill area.

The Unexpected

An overnight night stay at a local hotel leads to early morning drama like the stage production from A Streetcar Named Desire. I unwittingly held the supporting actress role due to a persistent knock at my door from a stranger looking for his lady friend. After five minutes of convincing him that she was not in my room, he paraded up and down the hallway yelling out her name! It was time to go. The light rays of Easter morning brought its freshness to the cool air that surrounded me. Moving up hill and westward, a glow along the skyline is a tip-off that the Route 66 Casino continued to entertain the last to go home and the first to arrive bunch. Traveling through several reservations, the car moves past Laguna and Grants, while the scenery of the desert provides the backdrop for numerous trains crossing the plains. Sometimes four to five engines pull three or more miles of cars that twist and bend with tracks that disappear into the foreground.

It’s during these lonely moments that I’m grateful for XM radio. One of my favorite stations is RadioClassics (Ch-82) with Greg Bell as the host. The endless miles seem to rush by as I try to concentrate on the story lines of Johnny Dollar, Dragnet or Gunsmoke. Sometimes the unbelievable tails from The Whistler, Suspense and X-One, keep my nerves on edge while passing away the hours.

I cross the famous Continental Divide with an elevation of 7,245 FT.  Finally, I reach Gallup, a testament to Indian art and crafts. You will also find the famous El Rancho Hotel, home to the stars during the hotels Hollywood heyday. My room during my first stay years ago was the Sydney Greenstreet room. For non movie buffs, he played the hefty character in the movie, The Maltese Falcon, starring Humphrey Bogart. More fun awaits across the state line to Arizona and the Petrified Forest National Park. (Above photo, Tee Pee neon sign, Mike and Betty Callens)

Hit the Road Jack (Westbound chp.2)

“Man cannot discover new oceans unless he has the courage to lose site of the shore” Andre Gide

Once you pass the town of Texola, you cross the state line of Texas. Route 66 greets you with the first town called Shamrock and the famous, U Drop Inn at the Crossroads of America, U.S. Highway 83 and Historic Route 66. The first time I found this building, it was empty, a ghost of its past heyday when you said “filler-up” and grabbed a meal before hitting the road again. Since then, a face lift and a sense of life has returned to the classic art deco style of this 1936 building. The Chamber of Commerce resides in the main portion. A small gift shop, at the front of the building, offers postcards, T-shirts, books and brochures to help to start your fun on the Texas side of the route. In the Pixar film, Cars, it inspired Romone’s auto painting shop.

Who would have known that barbed wire could be so interesting? In McLean, the Devil’s Rope Museum, (the name was given by religious groups that opposed of the use of barbed wire, claiming it injured cattle and called it ”the work of the devil”) also houses a Route 66 museum.  Both are fun and belive it or not a great history lesson at the same time.(www.barbwiremuseum) Groom can brag that they have their own leaning tower, water tower that is. A cleaver ploy by Ralph Britten of Britten U.S.A. Truck Stop , it caught the attention of drivers causing them to pull over to find out what was wrong. Before leaving the area, a 190 foot tall white Cross takes over the skyline. Mr. Steve Thomas, owner of Caprock Engineering, erected “The Cross” to show gratitude to God for His Blessings. This public display of faith is visible for up to 20 miles and even more impressive at night when illuminated. It is seen annually by approximately 10 million I-40 motorists. Take a moment to stop and view the Stations of the Cross with figures that are life-size and heart wrenching.

Continue along the panhandle to Amarillo (in Spanish pronounced, Ahm-a-ree-o). You will feel like a real cowboy as you travel to the heart of the town and stop at the Big Texan Steak Ranch, 7701 I-40 East. One of the things I find fascinating anytime I have a meal here, is the number of tough guys that think they can wolf down a 72-ounce steak. More power to those who think they can. The meal is set with all the trimmings and a time clock with a one hour window to complete your food. If you do, and I have only witnessed it once, the meal is free. Good luck to anyone who wants to try it! (www.bigtexan.com)

Ease on down the road to another of my favorite stops, the Cadillac Ranch. Ten vintage Cadillacs buried nose first into the ground, is a creation of Stanley Marsh 3, farmer, rancher and art collector. I don’t care how many times I pass this place, I love checking out the artistic hand of others. Once, I met a family traveling from Europe, carefully designing a British flag on one of the cars. During our conversation the father said that he was touring with his children in the states to give them a real history lesson of American landmarks. Now that is a lesson that will never be forgotten.

During my back and forth runs on Route 66 and I-40, one of my favorite stops for breakfast was the MidPoint Cafe & Gift Shop in Adrian, 305 W. Historic RT66. When you stand in front of the sign marker, you are midpoint between L.A. and Chicago, 1139 miles either way. The manager at the time, Fran, has since retired. Her genuine personality and dinner plate size pancakes kept me full well into the lunch hour of 12 noon. The new manager, Dennis, has a ready smile and the energy to keep you coming back for a visit. The restaurant is clean and pleasant, allowing you a chance to take a load off before moving forward. The nearby gift shop offers plenty of memorabilia to keep a roadie satisfied. Regarding the movie, Cars, MidPoint Cafe has two connections. It inspired Flo’s V8 Cafe’ and two waitress that work at MidPoint that are also sisters were Mia & Tia in the film. (www.route66midpointcafe.com)

Before your trek takes you into New Mexico, take a peek into the ghost town of Glenrio. During my first visit, there wasn’t much left but a few emptied out buildings and habitable homes. It is a sad reminder of how progress can sometimes bring death to a town. See you in the land of Enchantment. (Photos, top left, U Drop Inn; right, Britten U.S.A: center, Cadillac Ranch and bottom left, Big Texan Steak Ranch)

Hit the Road Jack (Westbound chp.1)

During my pursuit of Monsieur and the white Audi S5, I decided to take the unbeaten path and retrace my steps along Route 66. During 1999 to early 2000 I traveled the famous Mother Road. At that time my companions consisted of camera equipment with plenty of print film (remember that?), an overnight bag and a book titled, Route 66, Lives on the Road. My energy pushed me to locate not only the famous road stops in the book but the people or relatives that owned the businesses. They would autograph and in some cases, place a special designed ink stamp of their company next to their signature. So here I am, years later, seeking out the changes that may have occurred.

Departing Kansas and heading 35 South, I passed college towns and the Flint Hills, this time, green and brown in color. One of my favorite stops along the turnpike is the Belle Plaine Travel Information Center and Gift Shop, 770 North I-35. The small but wonderful store carries any thing related to Oz as well as Kansas items in general. This pit stop has the kindest people and one in particular, Else Brunholtz. This 86 year-old feisty woman with the brightest smile, shared personal stories when she learned of my lonesome journey. In 1942, during WWII, she traveled by bus, standing the whole way, from Nebraska to Reno to meet her husband to be. The trip took a week to complete after being bumped several times. When asked why no one offered her a seat, she said soldiers had taken them all and that’s the way it was. After they married, while her husband was fighting the war, she was given 50.00/month to live on. For her child, an additional 20.00 would be added. “We lived on rations and were not allowed rubber products. We also sent V-Mail, very brief notes to let people know you were alright. You didn’t dare put X’s and O’s (hugs and kisses) at the end of a letter. They would delete it for fear of an encoded message.” The time period consisted of blackouts, brownouts and women that came into their own by working in factories. Else is a walking history book and a joy to hang around. She is what traveling and meeting people is all about.

Pushing on to Oklahoma, westbound to Amarillo. There is a healthy taste of Route 66 in this stretch of the road starting with the Will Rodgers Memorial Museum in Claremore and the Blue Whale Amusement Park three miles north of Catoosa. Who say’s all barns should be square?The Round Barn of Arcadia, dates back to 1898. It is the only wooden round barn in Oklahoma. One of my favorites is the National Route 66 Museum in Clinton. The energy starts from the moment you walk in the door when the period music greets you. Then enter into the world of Route 66 with great exhibits, murals, recorded histories and personal accounts that lead to fun and learning along the way. Next stop? Texas.

Goodbye Maryland and D.C. (MD chp. 14)

“One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.”- William Feather

I have packed and will begin my trek across America to California. Feeling like travelers of the past that moved westward, my car is the modern buck board wagon and I hear the music from the T.V. show, Rawhide. 

“Keep movin’, movin’, movin’, Through they’re disapprovin’, Keep them doggies movin’, Rawhide!”

This entry is a summary of some last-minute finds and fun in Baltimore and D.C. To complete the chapters of Baltimore, Men and Crabs that gave insights into this town, my friends from John Hopkins Bayview Hospital, taught me the art of eating Maryland Blue crabs. The event took place at Jimmy’s Famous Seafood, 6526 Holabird Ave. Baltimore, MD. Although the group was small, it was enjoyable. As the steamy, hot creatures were poured on the table, Cheryl Gallion took over as the crab eating instructor. Why did it seem that I was on the Discovery Channel? ”If the claws are turned in, it’s a heavy crab….See the difference in claws? It means he was growing a new one. Maybe it got into a fight and lost one.” These were some of the insights she gave as she instructed me to break off this, remove the apron, do this, do that. When it came to some mustard colored stuff on the inside, she wasn’t sure stating there are theories about it. She didn’t care, continued to eat it and proceeded with her teaching. I’ve concluded that the process is barbaric and a lot of work for a chuck of meat. They are tasty especially from the claw but I’ll pay someone else to do the work while I enjoy the pleasure.

Number two on my never can say goodbye list is Fratello’s Pizza, 4117 E. Joppa Rd. Perry Hall, MD. The first week of this discovery was a Wednesday, before the week of my departure. Two slices of pepperoni pizza, made fresh while you wait with a drink is under 5.00. I was so impressed that I returned that Friday for 2 slices of Chicken Alfredo pizza. My new friends, Jacqui(with the middle name of Frost) and Sara suggested that on my next visit to try the Chicken Alfredo dinner. So on Saturday I went for it. The portion size is enough for two people. I ate the leftovers two days later, noting that the flavor was better than the first. Way to go Fratello’s!

In Washington, D.C. a wonderful boutique find is Lou Lou, 950 F Street NW. This small, unpretentious shop, managed by Sarah Scofield, located around the corner from the Ford Theatre is a gem. Besides unique scarfs, purses, jewelry and a little of this and that, there is one thing that sets them apart from others. In the back of the shop is a large screen television that plays old movies, color and black and white. My favorite fashion time period is the 30′s to early 50′s where the importance of being a woman was well-defined. The films selected represent style, beauty and the attitude of the store. You feel as though you want to pull up a chair and enjoy the company of the polite and friendly staff while in my case, the movie, A Street Car Named Desire, played in the background. It’s a good thing they didn’t offer popcorn, I would have been there until the close of business!

The last of my favorite things is Peacock Alley in the beautiful Willard Hotel. During the Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington, I celebrated the event with the special tea for the season. The area gets two thumbs up for beauty and service. The staff takes pride in what they do executing their duties with professionalism. The hostess and manager are the best around and are great in remembering returning guests. I will miss the savouries and delightful sandwiches on the tiered server. My favorite are the scones, clotted cream and yellow curd.

So there you have it. As I close the car doors, lay out road maps on the passenger seat, and check that everything is loaded, I wave goodbye to Baltimore,  Maryland and Washington, D.C. Thanks for the memories and fun to all the people who I’ve met along the way and I hope to see you again next time around.

A True Love Affair (MD chp. 13)

How does one express a love affair? Do you describe the way it affects you to the core? Maybe you try to make sense out of the indescribable words it puts in your head, heart and soul. I must confess a secret that I hold dear to my heart. It doesn’t involve a man but a place, one that has swept me up into its arms and transported me to centuries long ago.

The Walters Art Museum, 600 North Charles Street Baltimore, MD, is that love affair; a rare gem that teases you and then captures your attention. It contains the most magnificent and precious collections my eyes have ever feasted upon. The fourth floor of the museum houses my favorite period, 19th century art work. The affair begins with Andreas Achebach (German, 1815-1910). His oil on canvas, Clearing Up-Coast of Sicily, 1847, pulled me into its arms and refused to let go. The haunting glow of the disappearing sunlight behind the clouds and the crash of the waves upon the shore move you towards the storm. A somewhat dark painting, moody but powerful.

Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, Reclining Venus, 1822, oil on canvas is lighter in presentation. This is a copy of Titian’s Venus of Urbino, 1538. Reclining Venus, shows the beauty of a true full-figured woman. The softness of the skin and folds, a slight pooch of the stomach and yet it bears a sexual presence. This is an Italian painting of the High Renaissance time period.  My third favorite is the oil on canvas, Returning from the Fields by Jules Breton. This rural scene of three women returning from the field at dusk is said to have been set in the artist’s native Pas-de-Calais, North of Paris. I embrace the sense of being transported to that time and space; of friends gathering after a tiring day of work when I’m in the presence of this painting.

The Impressionism room displays other favorites like Pissarro, Sisley, Monet and the well-known panting by Jean Beraud, Paris Kiosk. (early 1880′s) In the movie, Gigi, they mention the town of Trouville. The oil on canvas painting of the same name by French artist, Louis-Eugene Boudin is a lovely depiction of tourists on the Normandy coast. Boston Street Scene (Boston Common) 1898/99 is by African-American artist Edward Mitchell Bannister. The painter won a national award at the Philadelphia Centennial Exhibition in 1876 receiving a 1st place medal, the first black man to hold such an honor.

The second floor houses the art of the Roman Empire. The Portrait of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (Roman, Antonine period. A.D. 161-80) is my idea of a real man after my heart. The philosopher-emperor was also the author of Meditations, the life and way of the gods. Aurelius’s strong facial features, curly hair and bearded face, surely turned more than one woman’s head during his time. Portrait of Emperor Augustus, Roman (Egypt?) Augustan period, 27 B.C.-A.D. 14, is a more youthful appearance with the same strong facial characters. Both mediums are marble. The Walters Art Museum also hosts special exhibitions like, Lost and Found: The Secrets of Archimedes. It involved the Archimedes Palimpsest. Currently, Exploring Art of the Ancient Americas: The John Bourne Collection Gift on view until May 20, 2012.

So there you have it, my secret unveiled. I hold a membership to this wonderful place, although I will be leaving the area soon. The importance of art and what it can mean to so many supports the need for the museum to continue with its great work. William T. Walters, son of Henry Walters (1848-1931), believed this also and bequeathed his palazzo-style gallery, its contents and a portion of his estate to the mayor and city council of Baltimore for the benefit of the public. The museums’ motto is, “What Will You Discover?” The answer, much, if you take the time to learn. (Photos courtesy of The Walters Art Museum)

A Pen In Hand

Our history with ink and paper has a long history that started in 3000 BC. Ancient Egyptian scribes were the first to write on paper with reed brushes on papyrus scrolls. By the 7th century, the quill pen replaced it after establishing history with the writing of The Dead Sea Scrolls and signing of the Constitution of the United States. During the 19th century the metal dip pen with a steel nib to hold the ink replaced the quill. As history laid its foundation so did the involvement of the writing instrument. In 1943, the ballpoint pen arrived on the scene followed by the felt tip pen in 1960 and then the rollerball pen (my favorite) in 1980.

In 1929, amid the stock market crashing and the Great Depression looming, Earl Fahrney founded Fahrney’s Pens as a fountain pen repair shop in Washington, D.C. It’s original home was the famous Willard Hotel in 1950 for twenty-one years. In 1971, the store relocated and was sold to Jon and Corinne Sullivan in 1972. The couple continued the commitment to quality that Earl Fahrney established. Eventually their son, Chris, took charge of the general run of the business but remained loyal to the Fahrney’s Pen tradition.

My slow but growing addiction to fine writing instruments began with my first ACME pen that I happened across in a stationary store during a clearance sell. The pale yellow background had detailed Hula skirted girls and I knew I had to have it. A pen with a fun motif, was unheard of in my writing world and the chase was on for the next fix. Another favorite of my writing collectables is the Tornado series by Retro 1951. Their hip, cool collection of pens equals their motto, “Life is too short to carry an ugly pen.” Later, it was my sister who introduced me to Fahrney’s pens; little did she know that she was only helping a junkie to find her next fix.

Once again, I rode the rails to Washington, D.C. to seek out my favorite store that several of the pens I own in my collection came from. As I stood outside Fahrney’s, 1317 F Street, N.W., I began to quiver with excitement and a film of sweat began to form on the bridge of my nose. Before entering, I took a deep breath and entered. As I made a slow and deliberate walk past each glass case, my heart quickened, then raced once I reached the one I was looking for,  The Retro 1951 Masters of Mystery. The manager, Emile Benjamin, knew how to handle a pen junkie in her drunken state. He started with a calm conversation of what I wanted, what types of pens I had in my collection and tested my knowledge of pen nostalgia. Finally, I could breath again and return to the sensible human being that I am under normal conditions.

It was during this time that I found out that the most expensive pen that Emile had sold to date cost 69,000.00. It is the one of a kind, Colours of Australia by Curtis Australia A few famous faces that have made their way into Farney’s were Terry McMillan and Nicki Giovanni. Judges and lawyers are collectors of special edition pens. They reluctantly drop them off or send their clerks to do so for required repairs. If you think women are bad about buying things and hiding them from their husbands you haven’t met a man who has lost a Farney pen. “It is no secret that they will spend what amounts to a mortgage on a pen, paying part cash and part credit and leave the packaging behind, hiding the fact they’ve spent that much at Fahrney’s,” said Emile. No show and tell here! There was an incident when a woman brought in a Mont Blanc that she found and requested an estimate. The pen was from the Solitaire Carbon Steel collection with a quoted price of 1100.00.

In several showcases, exquisite, collections abound like the Krone Limited Sigmund Freud Rollerball Pen. This and several other collector styles come in special designed trunks, not boxes, but small trunks that look like fine keepsake, or jewel boxes. Just the feel of one of those would have put me into shock! And the asking price for such writing instruments can go as high as 10,000 and more. Of course these are the ones you use to write a letter to the President of the United States and then place in your safe deposit box when you’re finished. I bid goodbye to my new friend Emile, and head to the Willard Hotel for afternoon tea. After such an occasion, I had to settle myself before boarding the train for home. I gained a new-found knowledge for my pen addiction and the store that supplies it. Writing fills me up, allowing me to share it with others and now I do it with beautiful writing instruments of style and grace.

Just my Imagination (MD chp.12)

There are times when you must step out of the normal stream of life and find a new path to take. This is not true for all human beings, but it is a fact of life for the curiosity seekers, trail blazers and the inventors of this world.

The American Visionary Art Museum, 800 Key Highway, displays the creative side of raw talent from deep within. AVAM, as Baltimorean call it, founded in 1984 by Rebecca Alban Hoffberger (at the time Puharich). Her idea was to create “A unique new museum and education center that would emphasize intuitive, creative invention and grassroot’s genius.” First you must understand that visionary art is spontaneous and individualized because these are self-taught artists. Currently, AVAM has over 4,000 pieces in its permanent collection.

I must admit that I love traditional art but this was a wonderful eye-opening experience. Who knew, (AVAM of course) that such creative possibilities could come from the mind and spirit when you open the doors to freedom? A display by Scott Weaver proves this. “Rolling Through the Bay” is a 100,000 toothpick wonder of a scaled replication of San Fransisco. When ping-pong balls are placed in the display, they travel through iconic symbols of the town. This kinetic sculpture took an estimated 3,000 hours and over 34 years to complete.

Another example of intense creativity is the micro dot sock thread embroideries of Ray Materson. Plagued by drug problems and committing a string of robberies with a toy gun, he was arrested and spent fifteen years in a state penitentiary in Connecticut. To preserve his sanity, he taught himself to embroider with the use of unraveled socks for thread and a sewing needle from a prison guard. His miniatures include 1200 stitches per square inch and measures less than 2.5×3 inches.

Photography is not permitted inside the museum but it isn’t needed because your mind will never forget what it has witnessed. Not all things appeal to everyone but so many pieces displayed will stay with you forever as you wonder “how did they do that?”After completing your tour don’t forget to check out Sideshow. The museum gift shop offers wacky, crazy, fun items to buy.(http://www.sideshowbaltimore.com/SIDESHOWsite/Home.html) If you enjoy all things gourmet, try Mr. Rain’s Fun House on the top floor. It offers a pleasant atmosphere to share with friends or a quite space to gather your thoughts. Mental stimulation, a few gifts for the road and a good meal to top off your visit. That is what AVAM is all about. (Photo credits, AVAM building by Dan Meyers, AVAM-Lusitania, Scott Weaver’s Rolling Through The Bay.”)

Oh,to be a Spy! (MD chp.11)

International Spy Museum

When one is on the trek for anything, whether it’s to find the love of your life, a criminal or information, you must have skills. I have felt that mine have been lacking in some manner since Monsieur is constantly slipping through my fingers. To find the answers I needed, I boarded the train from Penn Station in Baltimore to Washington, D.C. to speak to my contacts. The International Spy Museum, 800 F Street, NW is the real deal. This isn’t television but information pulled from real life events. Even the Advisory Board, is composed of scholars, practitioners and intelligence experts. This profession, second oldest to you know what, is the not so secret world that goes on around us everyday. Do we really know who our neighbors are? Who’s really watching us?

The museum opened on July 19th, 2002 and has since grown in popularity. It provides a global view of the impact that espionage has played in history. Your trip starts upstairs as you try your hand as a spy. Enter the Covers and Legends room, choose an identity and memorize the details of your character. Through audio/visual support you learn what it takes to maintain your cover. This is just an example of some of the rooms that you will come across. Cloak&Dagger gave examples of how messages were left in soda cans left in open wooded areas unbeknownst to anyone else and photos of people who were hidden in the grills of cars. You can view dagger weapons such as a tobacco pipe and glove pistols.

Throughout the museum you will find the things that Hollywood movies are made of, for example, invisible ink, buttonhole cameras and bugging techniques of all kinds. Learn how spies, taught to be shadows, learned to conceal and use poisons if caught. What’s fascinating is the history of those who reportedly, doubled as spies without our knowledge, such as Josephine Baker, an underground courier for the France Resistance. Marlene Dietrich, German movie star, American patriot and professional ball player Moe Berg. The International Spy Museum is exciting and fun as it taps into the imagination while teaching the history of what surrounds us everyday. So if you think you may have what it takes for secrecy, try your hand at Operation Spy. For one hour you must locate a missing nuclear trigger before the enemy does. Proceed to decode messages, crack a safe and interrogate a questionable double agent. If you succeed we will all live another day, if not, say your prayers and find shelter!

After a rough day of espionage and covert operations, I traveled to the Willard Hotel, 1401 Pennsylvania Ave NW. This historic building has been a part of the social and political scene since 1818. When you enter the lobby, take a look up towards the ceiling and notice every state seal represented. Afterwards, I entered Peacock Alley for a spot of tea, finger sandwiches and decadent sweets. The area is beautiful and relaxing with a touch of refinement. It’s just what a (female) spy needs while working as a double agent.